The understated Southland coast is home to many beauties. Unlike the likes of Queenstown and Te Anau, it is quiet and tourists are scarce in comparison, making it all the better! 

Unfortunately the Cathedral Caves were not open - access to these seems to go off how they are feeling on the day.   

Nugget Point is where you will have seen amazing photos of the light house. Unfortunately I still don't own a tripod which makes things difficult but nonetheless we enjoyed watching the sunrise from the point. The boulders are incredible too. 

There is a hide to watch the penguins from which you camp out in before the sun goes down. 

​This place is real random, but so cool. It is pretty hard to explain what it is - I think the best thing to do is to go there and experience it for yourself! 

There are many waterfalls to explore, all within a short walking distance from the carpark. I have nil photos as it was raining! 

I'll let the photo do the talking here! 

​New Zealand’s little version of Yosemite in the States, except with a whole load of water! Milford Sound is magical and will leave you feeling a huge appreciation for nature. Coming here felt quite surreal as it is one of those places I’d always longed to experience.
 
A boat trip onto the fiord is a must, giving you the best views of the surround cliffs. Mitre Peak the most distinctive of them all, is the focal point wherever you are in Milford.
 
There are many little walks on the drive from Te Anau to Milford; we walked up to Marian Lake which is at the Hollyford junction. It is an easy way that will take you between two to three hours return.
 
We can’t wait to return already; with not enough time we will be back – mainly to walk the many hikes in this area.  
 
 
 

Stewart Island – North West Circuit
10 days, 9 nights and 125km.
 
It was a bit much to write about this adventure as a memoir, instead I’ve got a little daily dairy / report of our time on the Northwest Circuit. Perhaps our greatest achievement, the 10 days of absolute wilderness provided some of our hardest yet most rewarding hiking to date.

​Day 1: Halfmoon Bay to North Arm Hut.
12 km, 3 hours

Feeling average after too many beersies the night before, the early morning and rough seas had us at the hut and into bed as quick as possible!

The ferry from Bluff to Halfmoon Bay wasn’t for the faint hearted; with 4m swells most people were feeling pretty queasy, holding onto their seats and stomachs. I reckon we should have had a double dose of sea leg pills!

After savouring our lunch at the South Sea Hotel, in what would be our last decent meal for 10 days, we set off for North Arm Hut. As this is part of the Rakiura Track (Great Walk), the track was mainly a gravel path with barely any mud. It was peaceful, the forest creaked, lush green ferns spread wide across the forest floor and reflections from the couple of puddles shone.

Arriving at the hut 3 hours after leaving the pub – grateful for the short walk, we settled in for an early night and some unsuccessful kiwi spotting.
 
Day 2: North Arm Hut to Fresh Water Creek Hut
11km, 6 hours

Mud, mud, and more mud, along with the chirping birds and hungry deer. Until you’ve hiked the Northwest circuit you might not fully comprehend how much mud there is! It felt good to conquer one of the toughest days on the track.

Benny had one tantrum – almost rightly so. We had to navigate our way down a river bed, with low hanging trees making it difficult with every step as they would knock your pack and send you backwards. As usual Benny’s pack was huge and this is an understatement.

The day was mostly through thick forest, with many ups and downs – a characteristic of the Northwest Circuit. You never climb that high, yet probably if you added up the changes in elevation, we’d probably climbed a mountain!

Already dreaming of our next pub feed after night 2 of Back Country Meal’s, this could be a very drawn out 10 days.
 
Day 3: Fresh Water Hut to Mason Bay Hut
16km, 3.5 hours

She was long and flat today. The beautiful grass fields spread far and wide, as we made our way over to the west coast of Stewart Island. Most of todays’ track had been man made back in the 1800’s for farming. We made the hut by midday which made for a nice afternoon of chilling out, resting the legs.

We headed out before dusk in hope of spotting a kiwi at Mason Bay Homestead – an old but kept farm house near to the hut. Despite hearing many calling, and hearing one close in the bush we had no luck. The sunset streaked pink and yellow across the skies, making it a beautiful evening to be out and about.
 
Day 4: Mason Bay Hut to Big Hellfire Hut
15km, 6.5 hours

WE SAW A KIWI. Yes indeed we did see a kiwi, in broad daylight right in front of us, we saw a kiwi. Not only did we see him, he walked out about 10m directly in front of us, then towards us before virtually brushing past Benny’s left side before heading on his way, leaving us with no doubts to why they are an endangered species. He had no idea!

This was potentially the coolest thing ever, seeing a kiwi in the wild. Both surreal and amazing, we were left speechless. It was magical. They are surprisingly quick with both their pecking and walking – we were impressed; it almost made up for their below average eyesight and clueless nature.

Putting the kiwi aside, she was a tough but rewarding day this one. The distance was long, and the terrain difficult. Loads of mud, uneven surfaces, many hills and dense forest, made for challenging times. From walking on beautiful golden sand beaches to being on top of a ridge, the sights were impressive and beautiful. Beginning with a stunning sunrise which was as great as the sunset the night before, to the huge fresh kiwi footprints we saw heading onto the beach, to the dear we saw in the middle of the track totally oblivious to us – it was a top day.   

We arrived at the hut with the rain really settling in, soaked through and cold; it was a relief Benny managed to get the fire roaring.
 
Day 5: Big Hellfire Hut to East Ruggedy Hut
14km, 7 hours

Woaaaaah, we’re half way there. Boom. Another huge day. Thunderstorms and hail joined us walking today, and a few deer which we spooked. Getting to the hut was pretty emotional! Dripping wet, hadn’t had lunch, and had been walking for 5 hours since our last break, arriving never felt so good.

The sights were again incredible. There were the most amazing beach, even in an intense storm it was spectacular; from the colours, to the waves, then the rocky cliffs and flat-topped forests.

I did a little half way washing session; it's going to be so good having a few cleanish clothes. Nice hut, top views, haven’t seen anyone now since Mason Bay.
 
Day 6: East Ruggedy Hut to Long Harry Hut
9km, 4 hours

We have never felt so grateful for Doc huts until yesterday and talking to an American girl tonight while we were all warm, dry and tucked up in a cosy hut confirmed this. She explained quite simply, in America we’d be outside in the 75kmh winds and rain putting up a tent. 

We started later today in hope the weather might clear – we were definitely dreaming. Setting off in the wind and the rain it was brutal going. The first section involved heading down a sand dune, across some quick sand and through a stream before we could retreat to the forest, adding to this was some testing weather conditions. Getting sand blasted by insane westerly winds was definitely an experience. At times I had to stop walking to brace myself to avoid being blown over by the strong gusts.

The ocean looked angry today, so loud she was deafening. Crashing onto the shore with brute force, filling the beach with white wash. We negotiated our way over boulders, some head high, being sprayed with sea salt as we raced against the tide coming in. Thankfully making it to the far end of the beach after an hour of boulder hopping, before once again retreating to the forest.

We were stoked to share the hut with a couple of others tonight after the last couple on our own. The ear plugs made an appearance tonight, not because of snoring but because of the howling wind and the hut sounding like it was going to get blown on the cliff.

We’re feeling pretty stoked with the shorter day today and the pack is getting noticeably lighter by the day, especially for Benny as let’s be honest – he is the one carrying the majority of our food (as well as everything else!).
 
Day 7: Long Harry Hut to Yankee River Hut
9km, 4 hours

We were on the track at 9.30am after a pretty chilled out morning. In the mist of the storm, we had a beaut sunrise that got me out of bed in a scramble to get outside to make the most of it. Though it wasn’t long before the savage sand-flies got the better of me, and I took myself back inside.

Putting my feet into wet boots for the third or forth consecutive day was painful but had to be done! We were chased by thunderstorms for the majority of the afternoon. Not sure what was louder – my tummy grumbling or the crackling storm? Fortunately, we made it to the hut when the worst rain was setting in.

Benny crossed a three-wire bridge at the same time as lightening struck down. Slightly concerning but he is alive.

Not as much mud today and some parts were like a standard track. It was luxury. I would even go as far to say that some parts were easy going, though the legs were starting to feel tired and heavy which didn’t make for ‘easy going’!

There were two “hunters” in the hut which was a bit of a laugh. I use the word hunters loosely as they were 79 and 83 years of age and I’m not sure if they had left the hut in a week since being ‘choppered’ in! They preferred to put out a couple of spy cams and watch the deer from the comfort of the hut. Good on them for being out there, it seemed they were having a jolly good time spotting the wildlife.

Despite their average yarns, and strong delusional opinions, they were very kind giving us some of their milk and chocolate. Definitely a win when you’ve been eating the same meals for 7 days!

There was a top shelf of goodies in this hut, free for hikers to help themselves to. So with some scone mix, I whipped up some scones, cooking them on the top of the fire. They look a while, but they worked. With some jam kindly supplied by the hunters we sat around getting scones at 9pm.
 
Day 8: Yankee River Hut to Christmas Hut
12km, 5.5 hours

Safe to say, we were glad to leave the hut this morning, getting on the track nice and early! The plan was to get to the hut by midday, then climb to the highest peak on Stewart Island, but by the time we got to the hut – I was pretty stuffed!

It was a nice casual walk down to Christmas Hut which was right on the east coast of the island. It was a pretty uneventful walk really. Probably one of the easiest days, yet it did seem quite long.

First day in a while we have arrived at a hut dry (except for our feet!). Winning! Hoping for a good sunrise tomorrow morning. 

A sweet as young local named Marko arrived around 4.30pm, with his guitar in tow making for a few laughs in the hut tonight, along with his peach snapps. He had completed his first day on the trails and was fresh as, quite the contrast to us oldies.

Hanging out now for a shower and a pub meal!
 
Day 9: Christmas Hut to Bungaree Hut
12km, 5 hours

Our food stocks are at an all time low after feeding Marko some of our pasta for dinner last night and having today and tomorrow to go. Feels strange seeing a lack of food in contrast to a week ago. Makes packing a whole load easier though. We were elated to see the back of that instant pasta. Lunch everyday so far, it had defeated us. So sickening, and cheesy and slightly off as well  - we think! (sorry Marko)

We cruised down to Bungaree Hut, enjoying the golden sand beaches and fern forest along the way. Bungaree was a nice little hut with the same layout as Yankee River, however the difference was it was right on the beach. A pretty dreamy location.

Making it to the hut before the afternoon rain set in was also a dream. Feels weird that this journey is coming to an end. Both our highlights so far – seeing the kiwi.

It was nice to have a chilled-out afternoon and evening before a big day tomorrow.
 
Day 10: Bungaree Hut to Halfmoon Bay via Port William Hut
18km, 7 hours

WE SAW MORE KIWI. Sitting out on the deck eating our breakfast at 6.30am we first heard a couple of Kiwi’s in what sounded to be a fight. They were fighting each other – not sure if it was a play fight, argument type fight or a straight territorial fight! But it was once again another surreal and amazing experience. The two kiwi, had a little tussle in front of us before returning to foraging stations. At one point, one of them even made it onto the deck.

There was also another one on the track which we heard calling, then heard a rustle in the bush before catching a glimpse of him racing through the ferns.
​
Today was long but easy walking, especially once we had reach Port William and were onto the Great Walk track.

First stop was Four Square for a snickers bar, before straight to the bar for a beer!
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I’m looking forward to regaining feeling in my toes and having a shower, but everything aside we could not recommend this walk enough. It was truly breathtaking and nothing like we have walked before.

* You can find out more information about this walk HERE

​We set off for Rodger Inlet Hut from Monowai Lake carpark feeling nil qualms about the day that lay ahead, only excitement at being back in the mountains starting another adventure – our first in Fiordland National Park. Leaving at 12.30pm in the gorgeous sunshine thinking the 10km walk to the hut would be nothing too strenuous, we could not have been more wrong! Described by DOC as an advanced tramping track / expert route for experienced trampers only, we can confirm it to be exactly this.

The towering forest track was storm ravaged with broken trees covering the track in its entirety. Constant sounds of weakened trees screeching, along with crunching of branches and twigs snapping underfoot filled the air. Wading through mud knee deep, climbing through and over fallen forest, continuously losing the track and crossing rivers bare foot for a solid five hours left us hanging out to arrive at the hut. Emotionally and physically exhausted, we were racing against time to get there before dark. Losing the track in perfectly good day light was enough of an indication walking in the dark would be bad!

At times we tried avoiding sections of the track entirely encompassed by mud and water by seeking alternative routes through the storm-stricken forest. Every other time we tried tip toeing over fallen or well-laid branches. However, rarely could the mud be escaped. One foot would sink into the mud with a squelch, followed closely by a slosh as you tried to regain your foot suctioned into the mud. Laughing at our failing attempts, this experience was character building for sure.
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Crossing a river at about the midway point, we took off our shoes, rolled up the pants, linked arms and psyched ourselves up to set foot in the glacial water. What probably took 2 minutes to cross felt like an eternity, my legs quivering from the cold as we made our way methodically across the river. The force of the water great enough to sweep your feet out from beneath you, every step was gradual. Surpassing the urge to run, all I wanted was to get out of the freezing water!

Approaching the hut, sounds of music filled the air. Our hut companion for the night, a French man named Max who had kayaked to the hut, sat on the deck overlooking the pristine lake playing his wooden, hand-crafted flute. Looking out at the peaceful and statue still lake, we soon forgot about any bad feelings about the hike thus far.

We knew mostly what we were in for today, having walked parts of this track on the first day and yesterday. Not too strenuous, relatively flat with only a little bit of mud dodging, we pushed the pace to get back to the car. Both relishing that feeling of comfort – today we were on a track, we knew where we were going and approximately how long it would take us! Touch wood, getting lost should not be an issue. That is wasn’t, as we got to the car after a pretty uneventful day.
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On a side note if you’re ever in Te Anau – we highly recommend the following:

• Splashing out and getting a meal at Redcliffe. The food and wine were top notch.
• Head to the local cinema and watch Fiordland on Film